Little Things I Love (Miss) About Berlin...

...the living room bars. A friend who I lived with for a second in Berlin, who also lives in New York again, is coming over tonight and I've been trying to figure out of what we should do. This got me thinking about Berlin again and something I particularly miss about my old home. Both NYC and Berlin have more bars than one city could possibly need, but the atmosphere inside of these establishments couldn't be more different. American bars have, well, a bar, bar stools, and maybe some tables, a TV, and they usually smell like stale beer and other things depending on their level on the dive-y scale. Berlin bars are more like living rooms or old attics where your grandma is storing all her unwanted furniture from her living room. They are full of couches and ashtrays and old lady lamps, and you can sit in them for hours without really feeling like you are wasting away at a bar. And I certainly did a lot of that with my friend, and she doesn't even drink. The cozy hangouts serve coffee, tea and club mate (when is it coming to the States?) and it isn't weird if that is what you want — everyone isn't just there to get drunk and hit on each other. I do miss that. The pic above is from one of my favorites, Luzia, and here are some of the others I hung out in as well.

Berlin Weekend Roundup: Two to Go!

art by Richard Lockett

I had a really nice weekend — kind of the opposite of last weekend as the nights certainly out-shined the days. I did get a little emotional on Saturday night though, as it was a friend's birthday that pretty much my whole Berlin crew was at, and it just made me sad to be together for one of the last times. As I have said before, it is a bittersweet end to an amazing year of my life that I could have continued, but instead chose to move on. But that is life, right? So many decisions. And one of my new ones as I welcome in this chapter, has been to start wearing my hair in pigtails (see!), maybe it is me rebelling against turning 30 in a few months. Sorry, I had to take the seriousness level down a notch there. Anyway, I am glad that these last weekends have been so special, even if it is a little overwhelming. 

It all went something like this: my friend Richard's amazing art opening, carb overload dinner with Erin, home early but in bed late, new found obsession with show Parenthood, house cleaning, packing, solo dance party, sushi, wine at Luzia on Oranienstrasse, trek to Wedding, Franziska's bday at Analog Bar, emotional talks, dance party of the day #2, late night ubahn ride photo fun, lazy Sunday, pizza, more Parenthood, overdue Skype session with Sarah.  

Berlin Weekend Roundup: Sunshine!

SUN

                

AND SNOW                Dress (vintage), belt (borrowed from BF), over-knee boots (ALDO)

                


This weekend the sun (yes the sun!) decided to show its face and although every day I complain (hopefully mostly in my head) about the lack there of here in Berlin, I didn't even realize how much I actually missed it until I was woken up with "look, sun!" and I felt those amazing warm beams on my face. That is not to say that it has warmed up here, quite the contrary, but I still decided to wear a dress for the occasion (with plenty underneath). With the sun in the day and snowball fights in the night, I would have to say that the weekend was quite all right.

It all went something like this: sushi, sake, snow date, wine at my new regular hangout Luzia, snow ball fight walk home, usual stop downstairs, falling asleep on the couch, holiday chocolate package, Christmas shopping in Kudam, Chanel perfume love affair, gourmet food shopping and sampling in Ka De We, glühwein in H&M, American diner dinner, bad movie in the theater, sleeping in, reading in bed, consuming chocolate package, lost wallet freak out, Boardwalk Empire.

Weekend Roundup: Marie Antoinette

Last weekend doesn't need much of an introduction other than it started off in the dumps but kept getting better and better. I had such a lovely time hanging out with my favorite person and shopping for presents for those other favorites of mine who I will see in San Francisco in a week from today! Oh an watching Marie Antoinette again and again. After all the talk of Sophia Coppola's latest Somewhere (certainly not as good) I thought I would watch one of her older films. Even though the script is lackluster in comparison to The Virgin Suicides and Lost in Translation, the film is such a pleasure on the eyes and the ears. I mean look at these photos, the images were in my head all weekend as well as the soundtrack, of course.

It all went something like this: home alone Friday, IM chat to Chicago, Marie Antoinette, Julia and Julia on the couch, breakfast at home, Holy.Shit.Shopping fair, Christmas present purchasing, Alexa Christmas Market, candied nuts, nutcracker, Alexa Mall, so much walking, fancy steak dinner, wine downstairs at Valentin Stüberl, sleeping in, Marie Antoinette again for Karsten, cleaning house, pilates, Vietnamese food, makeshift indoor ping pong tournament, Boardwalk Empire, late night German lesson, bed.

Berlin Weekend Roundup: Tschüss Lucy

INSIDE

Silk shirt and elephant necklace (thrifted in USA), orange lipstick (MAC Lady Danger)

AND OUT

Yup it was freezing this weekend, well below freezing that is (and still is). See that is me bundled up on my way to go swimming on Saturday. Yup, swimming — but don't worry, it was inside. Still if you are like me, you have no desire to get into a bathing suit and get all wet when the temps go subzero. But alas, I decided to join my boyfriend on his regular swim at Stadtbad Neukölln, which I have been saying I would do for the last couple months but always make some excuse at the last minute like, hey it is freezing out! Anyway, it was well worth it and warm and lovely once inside. I highly recommend a dip if you are in Berlin, not only is swimming a great workout, the actual pool is quite beautiful surrounded by old columns, fountains and such (although I am currently thinking up excuses not to have to go tonight, eeeek, did I mention it was freezing?).  

The pics above were taken via iPhone (sorry) while getting ready to go out after my frosty trip home. Due to swimming hair (my hair looks terrible right after a wash), I decided to do a little updo. I was quite proud that I was able to get the braid to go all the way around my head. A special hairdo for a special night. Where was I going you ask? Well that is the sad part of the weekend: I was going to a gathering where I would say goodbye to my friend Lucy who has now left Berlin for London. She is definitely one of the most fun girls I know and certainly one of my favorite people in Berlin. I am so sad that we only had a couple months to get to know each other, but happy to have had at least that. And it is okay, I know our paths will cross again whether in London, New York, back in Berlin or somewhere completely new. So all in all, a lovely weekend with a bittersweet and very cold air. 

It all went something like this: Friday evening at home with pizza, sleeping in, cleaning up, yummy lunch with Lucy, talk of Thailand, freezing bike home, turkey scouting, swimming, dog watching, pasta, garlic bread and delish red wine, party at Stereo 33, goodbye Lucy, late night, lazy day, sewing, The Rachel Zoe Project and Boardwalk Empire, Vietnamese food, sleep.

Berlin Weekend Roundup: So Many Bars

DAY

All second-hand and thrift except American Apparel thigh-highs

AND NIGHT

All second-hand and thrift except H&M tights

Remember a bit ago when I said I didn't go out to the bars that much anymore, well I might just have made up for that in the past few days. My weekend started out in the dumps, well more like I started my weekend out in the dumps. Friday afternoon it was already dark and I was lonely, homesick and feeling sorry for myself. But after a few phone calls with loved ones back in the States and one phone call from my boyfriend in which he said get up, get dressed in something nice like you would if you were going out in NYC and come meet me, everything did a 180. I put on a little velvet dress I had yet to wear (I will have to give you a proper photo as it is pretty awesome up close), tall ankle boots (despite the cobblestones), my new leather jacket and some red lipstick and headed out the door. And the weekend actually turned out to be quite lovely indeed — full of Berlin bars and cafes, fun, food and friends. Just the way it should be.

It all went something like this: dressing up, salad and pasta at Zur Rose Café, Jay spinning at new bar Graues Kloster, apfelschorle, salad lunch on Bergmannstrasse, twin book purchase at used English bookstore Another Country, reading coffee and cake, Lucy meetup on Oranienstrasse, beers at Luzia, tacos at Santa Maria, mojito at Hannibal, back in Neukölln, birthday party at Ä Bar, late night downstairs Valentin Stüberl stop by, sleeping in, first snow, sushi lunch, Roald Dahl's Witches, Bored to Death.

Bars I Like, Berlin: Valentin Stüberl

It has been quite some time since I have shared a Berlin Bar I Like with you (maybe because I don't find myself in them as often), so in lieu of a Weekend Roundup, that is just what I am going to do. It works because the highlight of my rather uneventful weekend (other than a lovely dinner party at Lucy's last night) was going to this bar, which happens to be convientely (or perhaps inconvientely) located in my building.

The proximity is not the only reason for my fondness — there is something special about this place. It's contradictory atmosphere makes for a surprisingly welcoming environment where you might find older German men playing chess, some Neukölln hipsters listening to actual good (non techno) tunes and a whole lot of regulars like me. The traditional Bavarian food and beer garden table setup is set-off by eccentric art and a rotating grocery cart chandelier. It is where I watched the World Cup, but also where I could watch a black and white art film. It has a peeling electrical tape front sign, but a fine list of wines...


But what got me to finally blog about Valentin Stüberl, was the night we had there on Friday. It all happened in the back room where I usually don't go. Oh yeah in continuing with their wave of polarity they have a back room that is nothing like the front, but filled with dark lights, couches, a DJ and sometimes a band playing. The DJ on this particular night was not only Alec Baldwin's doppelgänger, but played only soundtracks, scores and theme songs. At first we thought we were going crazy (wait! Is that not the song from Braveheart? Wait! Is he really playing the MASH theme song? Wait! Is the DJ watching a movie on his laptop?). Anyway, it made for a very fun night full of laughs and a bit of dancing that lasted way longer than I expected. But at least all I had to do was crawl up the stairs to my apartment when I finally wanted to go to bed.


Valentin Stüberl
Donaustrasse 112
12043 Berlin
http://www.myspace.com/valentinstueberlneukoelln


Photos from the Urban Food Guy.

Berlin Weekend Roundup

This weekend started out the complete opposite of last weekend: mellow and cold. With all the activity and heat of the past days, staying in and wearing a sweatshirt was actually a nice change. But things picked up when at the last minute we decided to go out on Saturday and ended up having one of those nights I always equate with NYC, where you end up in random places you never planned having fun you never expected. Love when that happens, but still my favorite part of the weekend was making dinner before we went out. Despite the cold we decided to barbecue on the balcony and I introduced Karsten to the world of watermelon salad: a weird and wonderful place where watermelon is mixed with feta, olives, mint and more. Sounds crazy I know, but for some reason the combination is amazing. I included a recipe below and highly suggest that you try it if you never have. As for the rest of the weekend.

It all went something like this: staying in, tuna melts, David Lynch, house shopping, Baltic Sea booking, balcony bbq, watermelon salad, random Neukölln party/show, dancing, Konrad Tönz, Club der Visionaere, sleeping in, breakfast/lunch in bed, Neukölln swimming pool, water slide, Vietnamese food, reading, bed.

Ingredients
3/4 cup halved, thinly sliced red onion
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 1/2 quarts seeded, cubed watermelon
3/4 cup crumbled feta cheese
1/2 cup pitted black olive halves
1 cup chopped fresh mint
2 tablespoons olive oil

Directions
*Place the onion slices in a small bowl with the lime juice. The acid of the lime will mellow the flavor of the raw onion. Let stand for 10 minutes

*In a large bowl, combine the watermelon cubes, feta cheese, black olives, onions with the lime juice, and mint. Drizzle olive oil over it all, and toss to blend. Dig in and be prepared for a pleasant surprise!

Berlin Weekend Roundup

This weekend was the best welcome home a girl could have. I was finally over my jet lag and able to really get out and enjoy the city. It was a great reminder of how much I love the summer in Berlin.

It all went something like this: evening walk, gazpacho and shrimp avocado salad on the river, Anne meetup, first beach bar of the season, lightning show over the water, Jay spinning at Muschi Obermaier, dance party, late night sleep, brunch at home, local designer White Market, East German stamp necklace purchase, Prenzlauer Berg walk, glasses and hat shop fun, eiskaffee (coffee with ice cream), Mitte window shopping, Alexander Platz, Vietnamese food on Oranienstrasse, photo booth, sunset at Görlitzer Park, experimental theater surprise show, Rioja outside at favorite Spanish place, next door nightcap, sleeping in, breakfast in bed, cleaning house, shawarma dinner on the balcony, the United States of Tara.


(Dress: thrift, boater hat: Prenzlauer Berg hat shop)

Fussball Break

Did you know that soccer is fussball (pronounced foosball) in German and foosball is called kicker? Anyway, on Friday I watched all three cup games, each with a different person, and I will say I am starting to see soccer in my head when I close my eyes. And from the benches these Germans have us sit on to the stress of the anxiety-inducing USA tie (that would have been a win if it wasn't for the doofus above) my back is aching! So this weekend I have taken a little soccer break, only hearing the cheers from the bar downstairs from our house where we have become all too regular. I feel overwhelmed with all the soccer I have been watching, but have I told you that my brother Andrew has taken off work so he can watch every single game—that is 64 games my friend! He is probably walking around in a daze talking like a straight up sportscaster by now. Nutters.

Breaking news: looks like I might have to watch the Brazil v. Cote D'ivoire tonight.


*Thanks for the tip Franziska. 

Berlin Weekend Roundup (Little things I love)

Last week I told you that one of the little things I love about Berlin is that it stays light out so late—well I just discovered that the day begins much earlier too. On Friday night (Sat morning) Karsten and I found ourselves out a little later than we anticipated (but still not later than bar closing time in NYC) and our walk home was already completely in daylight. With the streets being empty-ish, I of course had to take advantage of the opportunity and stage a little photo shoot (bag and shoes both thrifted in Berlin) in front of all the Turkish wedding dress stores in my Neukölln neighborhood. There are tons of them around every corner—yet another little thing I love about Berlin. Aren't they amazing? Such tacky goodness. The rest of the weekend took a more relaxing tone with a lot of lounging and World Cup watching.

It all went something like this: Indian food, second half of Uruguay v. France outside, walk through the park, Club Mate (my new energy go-to drink), drinks on Skalitzer Straße with Anne, Konrad Tönz, Neukölln wedding inspiration, late night kebabs, sleeping in, name game, Kreuzberg flea market with Erin, talk with our new vendor friend Charlie, new impractical (but cool) bag, milchkaffee by the water, USA v. England downstairs, Weeds, Sunday house cleaning, Vietnamese salad, Germany v. Australia downstairs, celebration in the streets, long overdue phone conversation with Sarah. 

Berlin Weekend Roundup

I finally sorted out my camera situation so now I can tell you about my lovely weekend.

It all went something like this: Görlitzer Park with Sebastian, Manuel and the Messiah, pho, Jens and Karsten at Ä Bar, Badeschiff, thrifted and shortened tiger dress, floppy hat from Rome, first swim of the season, a long game of M K F, bike ride through BBQ madness, Spanish food, toilet guard dog, pompadour fun (for me), early bed time, S Bahn to the lake with the boys, picnic, first freshwater swim, beer garden, adult talk, twin outfit, escape to Italy/Italian dinner.  

Sorry for all the pics Karsten :)